George DuBoef Dies at 86

(c) AFP

Georges Duboeuf, 'The Pope of Beaujolais' dies at the age of 86. He singlehandedly elevated a wine-producing region into a gold mine by celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau, a young wine drunk each year soon after harvest. His winery, run by his son Franck since 2018,  produces 30 million bottles of the light wine a year.

Called an ordinary wine, it was made extraordinary each year by the celebration of each year's new vintage. Light and inexpensive, we drank Beaujolai at will in the 1980s.

Most interesting is that his family has been in the winemaking business for four centuries. That's a lot of wine. RIP Georges!

Famous Ukrainian Wine?

Never heard of Ukrainian wines? Neither had I until I came upon an article about a Radio Free Europe investigation into how EU firms are sidestepping sanctions put in place against Russia after they invaded Crimea. Bastardo Old Crimea is a label of Inkerman International, making wines since 1961. "Only the best wine materials of Ukrainian and imported origin are used for production of wines. The company fully controls the harvesting, transportation, processing, fermentation and bottling of wines," the website claims. Technically, the company is owned by Ukrainian Valeriy Shamotiy but is headquartered in Sweden. Forbes estimated Shamotiy's assets at nearly $77 million in 2013, placing him among Ukraine's richest people. 

They offer labels for every segment of the market: new wines for young, vintage for older, classic for in between, sparkling, dessert and artisanal, in red, white and rose made of all the great varietals and some unusual ones. Somehow, I don't think they are all grown in Ukraine. But if we can grow grapes in Ireland, the steppes of Ukraine could certainly make some room for vineyards among the fields of grain, poppies and sunflowers.

In 2003 the trademark INKERMAN was registered. In 2011, Inkerman International AB, a  holding company with headquarters in Stockholm, was established.  In 2014, LLC INKERMAN UKRAINE was established as a subsidiary of Inkerman International AB. For almost five years after the EU adopted Crimea sanctions, his companies were all controlled by the same Swedish company. Shamotiy's Inkerman International AB is currently formally owned by three companies based in Cyprus, Finland, and Hong Kong, respectively. Inkerman Vintage Wines Factory Ltd was spun off in October 2019 in a sale to a St Petersburg-based company called Optima JSC. Inkerman International wines are now allegedly bottled in Sevastopol, Crimea for the Russian market and in Nova Kakhovka and Odessa, Ukraine for the Ukrainian market. 

A similar split into Ukrainian and Russian-oriented branches have been launched by other companies avoiding the scrutiny related to sanctions. 

According to Trip Advisor, there are at least six other wineries in Ukraine. And how was Inkerman spelled in Cyrillic before Sweden, or was it? Инкерман? It's certainly not a Ukrainian name. There's plenty of shenanigans and intrigue, but how is the wine? 

Brilliant Sunday

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day, cold but not uncomfortable. We walked the donkeys from our fields down the road to their winter home in the barns at ITB Stud. They were complaining loudly and their feet were wet and cold. But when the time came, they refused to leave the field. They like it here. When Alex called to them, they finally came down the road. They know the way.

I then settled in to do some gardening, putting plants into the greenhouse, pulling weeds, and cutting back dead plants. The vineyard is almost asleep, with most of the leaves having fallen. The leaves are still on the trees in the orchard. I'll be leaving everything as is for now, though I'd like to put some natural fertiliser and mulch around the plants to decompose over the winter. I have comfrey in the garden to cut up and soak. But today started out with frost and has remained frigid. I'll wait for another day when the weather and my melancholy clear up.

Cinsault grapes

At dinner in Cru in Kinsale, Alex spotted a wine he'd never encountered before. It was a South African Tiger Horse Cinsault, labelled as coming from old vines. Cinsault is characterised by vines of 40-65 years in age or more, in vineyards that are not irrigated, resulting in 14% alcohol, berry flavour, and light translucent red colour. It is typically said to be served with escargots or stew. How they arrived at those decisions is beyond me. We liked it with seafood. It was lightly fruity, lightly chilled, and served by the owner of Cru who came by to explain his selection of this wine in person. He wanted to be certain we understood what we ordered and also offered to exchange it for something else if we didn't like it. Our experience at Cru overall was exceptional.

I looked up Cinsault when we returned home and learned that it is a grape that thrives in hot windy weather. Hence, it's often found in places like South Africa and the Rhone Valley. It is also used to make rosés in the Provence region. But apparently, Cinsault is in decline, decreasing in total acreage in vineyards all over the world. Over a ten year period from 2000 to 2010, 14% of Cinsault vines were culled from vineyards worldwide and replaced with vines that are easier to cultivate. As a result, Cinsault wines are available in relatively small quantities. A NYT article I found recommends the wines of De Martino winery. It's available in Ireland so I shall be on a quest.

This is not unlike our adoption of Viognier for white, also an old vine variety that's more fickle to grow. I like that in a wine that I am drinking but not making.

Sonoma fires

Today, our hearts are with the people of California who again are suffering from the effects of wildfires. The Kincaid fire has ravaged at least three wineries, including the historic Soda Rock Winery which has been in place since the 1800s. All that is left is the stone facade of their main building and a steel sculpture of a boar called Lord Snort, a Burning Man artwork. They posted the photo on Facebook as sympathetic messages came from all over the world.

The Jackson Family Winery, Robert Young Estate Winery and Vineyard, Garden Creek Vineyards, The Field Stone Winery and Moville Vineyards reportedly also suffered extensive damage. The Alexander Valley is home to about 5,000 acres of vineyards with 31 wineries and 82 growers. Most vintners completed their grape harvest just last week and were in the critical stages of crush. Wind gusts up to 100 mph were reported but have now calmed somewhat. Firefighters are struggling to contain the fires before strong winds are forecast to return.

A new blaze broke out yesterday near the Getty Centre on the west side of Los Angeles hundreds of kilometres from where crews were fighting the state’s biggest and most destructive fire, the Kincade, north of San Francisco. Nearly 200,000 were evacuated and power was cut to millions to avoid exacerbating the potential for new fires. Some argue the power cuts are making it more difficult to escape and to fight the fires. The power companies are saying they can't survive the liability. What a conundrum. At least no one has died.

PostScript 30-10-19: The National Weather Service issued a new warning today: the Extreme Red Flag Warning, for a high-wind event taking place in much of Los Angeles and Ventura counties through Thursday evening.

This is unprecedented. A massive area has been evacuated and more is under advisory.

Pinot noir vines have grapes!

We certainly didn't expect it, didn't even bother looking, but the Pinot noir vines we planted this year have grape clusters. Oh my, what an encouraging development! And some are ripe and exceedingly tasty.

Meanwhile, the Rondo vines are continuing to produce new grapes after the first batch was devoured by our greedy birds. We'll see if they have time to ripen. I doubt it, especially if the predictions for snow on Friday come true.

Finally, we got word today from Galicia that the yield has been low this year:

"Here harvest has finished with a volume shortage this year, around 25% less juice as the grapes were dehydrated due to the very high temperatures just before harvest. So we will have a lot less albariño this year, although the quality is very good."

As Alex concluded, "It's happening."

Vineyard haiku

It rained all day yesterday. So I wrote a vineyard haiku.

The vines are drooping

From massive onslaught of rain

Battering their spines

Hmmmm. Maybe it's the start of a climate change collection.