It is shocking hot today. At one point our high reached 25.5C. There is little wind and no rain in the forecast for the next 13 days. How bizarre. The temperature in the polytunnel was 44.9C when I hosed everything down to cool it. The skies are blue, the clouds whispy. Met Éireann is saying it may be the hottest April day ever recorded.
A chronicle of our preposterous journey to grow wine grapes and make wine in the west of Ireland, where the mountains come down to the sea along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Wednesday, 30 April 2025
Sunday, 27 April 2025
Bottling in progress
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2024 vintage bottled |
Alex was energetic today and undertook the bottling of the wine, not that we had much yield in 2024 compared with 2023. But he reports having tasted it and both red and white passed muster, but the white he really liked a lot. Tasting notes to follow.
The white left behind a hard, crystallised residue of potassium bitartrate. That's not a bad thing, but we wonder how we'll get it out of the demijohn.
He has also been bottling bits of mead to give to friends and family. Two types, plain and flavoured with raspberry. Both are dry, the raspberry with beautiful colour and a slight hint of raspberry not tasting artificial or overly raspberry at all.
Monday, 21 April 2025
New Labelling required in Ireland
What a warning label would look like |
A new legal requirement for health warnings on alcoholic drinks sold in Ireland may drive wineries away from supplying the market. Bright red, cigarette-style health warning messages for alcoholic products are becoming a major barrier to trading. The new labelling regulations were published in July 2024, and all wines, irrespective of the vintage or when they were shipped, must feature the health warnings by May 2026.
The laws specify that the back-labels must bear warnings about the danger of drinking alcohol in respect to liver disease as well as when pregnant and mention a link between alcohol and fatal cancers. In addition, the label must state the quantity of grams of alcohol and the calorie content of the product, with rules on the text size, font, and colour, with red being mandatory, specifically Pantone reference 2035.
Ireland is the first member of the European Union to mandate such health warnings on alcoholic drinks. Some wine producers, including Catena Zapata, are refusing to comply with the new labelling laws, ruling themselves out of supplying the market. I'm stockpiling Malbec.
Sunday, 20 April 2025
Good progress in the vineyard
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Rondo |
Today is Easter Sunday and the vines are thriving. Rondo is farthest ahead but they are all catching up. That may be a direct result of three days of rain in which a total of 37 mm fell. Given that our monthly total is now just 48.4, a fraction of normal, we only had 11.4 mm of rain in the prior weeks.
Happy Easter!
Христос Воскрес!
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Rondo |
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Solaris |
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Rondo |
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Rondo |
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Chardonnay |
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Pinot Noir |
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Pinot Noir |
Wednesday, 16 April 2025
Wine consumption and prodution lowest since 1961
Wine production is at its lowest since 1961, but consumption has also fallen to a 55-year low. The International Vine and Wine Organisation (OIV) said global wine consumption is estimated at 214 million hectolitres (mhl) in 2024, a 3.3% decrease from 2023. If confirmed, this would represent the lowest global consumption level since 1961. If Trump institutes tariffs on alcoholic drinks, it would be disastrous to the industry.
Saturday, 12 April 2025
Researching an old vine
To start researching the white grape propagated from the Ross House vine, I asked ChatGPT these questions. I am now fairly certain that the variety of grape we propagated from Ross House is Buckland Sweetwater. And it took 5 minutes or less.
What were popular white grape varieties that were grown in glass houses in Ireland in the 1800s?
ChatGPT said:
In the 1800s, particularly during the Victorian era, glasshouses (or greenhouses) became increasingly popular among the wealthier classes in Ireland and Britain for cultivating exotic fruits and grapes that wouldn’t typically thrive in the cool, damp climate. While black (red/purple) varieties were often favored, several white grape varieties were also cultivated under glass.
Here are some popular white grape varieties grown in Irish (and British) glasshouses in the 1800s:
🍇 1. Muscat of Alexandria
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One of the most prized white grape varieties in Victorian glasshouses.
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Known for its rich, sweet flavor and strong muscat aroma.
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Required warmth and careful handling—ideal for the controlled conditions of a glasshouse.
🍇 2. Chasselas
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Particularly Chasselas de Fontainebleau, a white grape that was popular in glasshouse culture.
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Early-ripening and sweet, with a mild flavor.
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Native to Switzerland but well adopted in British and Irish estates.
🍇 3. White Frontignan (a Muscat variety)
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Also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains.
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Highly aromatic and used both for dessert and occasionally for wine.
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Preferred for its small berries and intense flavor.
🍇 4. Syrian (or White Syrian)
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This variety was grown under glass primarily for its novelty and sweetness.
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It was one of many "exotic" grapes introduced to wealthy estate gardens.
🍇 5. Buckland Sweetwater
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A white grape bred in the UK in the early 1800s.
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A hybrid likely involving Chasselas.
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Known for its early ripening and pleasant taste, good for eating fresh.
🍇 6. Royal Muscadine
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Sometimes grown under glass as a table grape.
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Sweet and delicate, it was suited for the refined palates of the era.
These varieties were typically grown in walled kitchen gardens with dedicated vinery houses—often attached to or near large estates. The rise of horticultural excellence in Victorian times turned grape-growing into both a scientific pursuit and a symbol of status.
If you're curious about how they managed the glasshouses or which estates were known for this kind of cultivation in Ireland specifically, I can dig deeper into that too!
Which estates in the west of Ireland were known for managing vines in glass houses?
ChatGPT said:
In the 1800s, several estates in the west of Ireland were renowned for their glasshouses, where they cultivated a variety of fruits, including grapes. Here are some notable examples:
🍇 Kylemore Abbey, Connemara (County Galway)
Constructed in the late 19th century, Kylemore Abbey's Victorian Walled Garden was among the most advanced of its time. Spanning approximately six acres, the garden featured 21 heated glasshouses designed by Cranstons of Birmingham. These included specialized houses for grapes (vineries), peaches, bananas, figs, melons, and tropical plants. The estate employed around 40 gardeners, and its horticultural sophistication was often compared to that of Kew Gardens in London. Dreamstime+2Irish Historic Houses+2Alamy+2Wikipedia+3rondougherty.com+3Irish Historic Houses+3
🍇 Muckross House & Gardens, Killarney (County Kerry)
The Herbert family, original owners of Muckross House, established Victorian glasshouses on the estate. By 1918, these structures were producing grapes, peaches, and figs. While some glasshouses were reconstructed in the early 20th century by the Bourn Vincent family, they incorporated elements of the original Victorian designs. joc-architects.ie+2The Irish Aesthete+2rondougherty.com+2
🍇 Kenmare Estate, Killarney (County Kerry)
Adjacent to Muckross, the Kenmare Estate, owned by the Browne family, was active in greenhouse cultivation during the 1860s and 1870s. Reports from that era mention the production of greenhouse plants, peaches, nectarines, melons, and grapes. The estate featured a curvilinear glasshouse, indicative of the period's architectural style. Gardenhistorygirl+2The Irish Aesthete+2agefotostock.com+2
These estates exemplify the Victorian era's enthusiasm for horticulture in Ireland, showcasing the use of glasshouses to cultivate a diverse array of fruits and plants, including white grape varieties.
If you're interested in more detailed information about these estates or others in Ireland, feel free to ask!
You said:
Which white grape varieties did they grow at Kylemore Abbey?
ChatGPT said:
At Kylemore Abbey's Victorian Walled Garden, the restored Vinery cultivates several heritage grape varieties. Among these is 'Grizzley Frontignan', a white Muscat grape known for its aromatic qualities and ancient origins. This variety is believed to have originated in ancient Greece and was later cultivated in France and Italy during Roman times. The Vinery also grows 'Buckland Sweetwater', a white grape bred in the UK in the early 1800s, and 'Black Hamburgh', a black grape variety. kylemoreabbey.com
Historically, the estate featured four vineyard glasshouses dedicated to Muscat grape cultivation, indicating the significance of white grape varieties in its horticultural practices. Latest news & breaking headlines
Today, the Vinery continues to preserve these heritage grape varieties, maintaining the estate's rich horticultural legacy.
You said:
What does the Buckland Sweetwater grape leaf and grapes look like?
ChatGPT said:
The 'Buckland Sweetwater' grape is a heritage white table grape variety, historically cultivated in glasshouses like those at Kylemore Abbey. It is renowned for its early ripening and sweet flavor.
🍇 Grape Appearance
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Color: The grapes are pale green, maturing to a soft amber hue as they ripen.
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Shape: They are typically round to slightly oval and form in medium-sized, compact clusters.
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Texture: The skin is thin, and the flesh is juicy, making them ideal as dessert grapes.
🍃 Leaf Characteristics
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Shape: The leaves are medium to large, with a classic lobed shape common to Vitis vinifera.
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Color: They are deep green during the growing season, turning to shades of yellow and bronze in autumn.
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Texture: The leaves have a slightly serrated edge and a textured surface.
These characteristics made 'Buckland Sweetwater' a favored variety in Victorian-era glasshouse cultivation, valued for both its aesthetic appeal and delightful taste.
Back to Turlough House
We had another workshop with Andrew in the Vinery at Turlough House. He showed us how to manage the new growth on the vines, nipping out the tendrils, one set of flowers, and the tip - count three leaves from the selected inflorescence. On our vines, we wouldn't be nipping out the second inflorescence. It was again a very useful exercise.
The weather has turned, and today we have clouds for the first time in weeks. It feels good.
Friday, 11 April 2025
Polytunnel grapes
I was surprised to see inflorescence on the Jenny grape in the polytunnel. Its peduncle appears to be a multiparous cyme. The vine didn't do much last year, but its growth is quite vigorous this year. It's very encouraging. There are several bunches already. Apparently, it's a variety that makes especially good jelly.
The Ross House delicious white eating grape, which Alex propagated, is doing very well in the polytunnel. It has a distinctive leaf shape and I hope we can trace its variety.
Our weather continues with blue sky, sunshine, no wind and no rain. The 11th of April and our rain total is 0.0 mm for the month. Our first break will be tomorrow afternoon when we will see clouds and may get a few sprinkles, and Sunday when we will get rain and wind most of the day.
Even without rain, the vines outside have leafed, all except the Pinot Noir.
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